Muslin was made in Dhaka (Sonargaon) from very fine yarn, which is made from cotton called Phuti karpas; while in Malda, Radhanagar and Burdwan, muslin was made from fine yarn made from nurma or kaur cotton. A minimum of 300-count yarn was used for the muslin, making the muslin as transparent as glass.
A woman in Bengal wearing Dhaka Muslin, titled Muslim Lady Reclining by Francesco Renaldi (1789)
Introduction:
Soft as a whisper, light as air—malmal (muslin) is a fabric steeped in elegance and history. Originating in the heart of Bengal (now Bangladesh), this exquisite textile once draped the royalty of the Mughal Empire and dazzled European courts. Though Nepal never produced the ultra-fine Dhaka muslin, its influence reached the Kathmandu Valley, becoming a prized possession among Nepal’s aristocracy. Let’s trace the journey of malmal—how it was born, declined, and found new life in both its homeland and the Himalayan foothills.
Bengal’s fine cotton cloth, similar to muslin, dates back to 2000 BC, with the earliest specimen found in Egypt as a mummy shroud.
A Roman book from 63 AD mentions Indian cotton reaching Europe.
Bengal’s cotton was praised for its exceptional quality.
Arab and European travelers marveled at how a muslin cloth could pass through a ring.
The word muslin comes from Mosul (Iraq), but Bengal made it world-famous.
Travelers like Marco Polo and Ibn Battuta admired Bengal’s cotton, especially from Sonargaon.
Mughal Bengal was the global hub for muslin, with Dhaka as its center.
Dhakai muslin was soft, lightweight, and transparent (up to 300 thread count).
28 varieties of muslin were made.
Cities like Dhaka, Malda, Shantipur, and Cossimbazar were key production centers.
European traders exported muslin to Europe; showcased in London’s 1851 exhibition.
British East India Company pushed British-made cloth, damaging Bengal’s muslin industry.
There are stories of weavers’ thumbs being cut off, but this is debated by historians.
Muslin quality declined as many skilled weavers left the trade.
In 2022, a Muslin Center was built near Dhaka to promote the industry.
Muslin sarees, dhotis, and bedsheets are now made; some sarees sell for ₹1.5 lakh.
Nepal didn’t produce ultra-fine Dhaka muslin but developed its own “Dhaka” fabric.
The name “Dhaka” in Nepalese textiles was likely inspired by the muslin of Dhaka, Bangladesh.
A Nepali minister is said to have brought back the idea from Dhaka, influencing the creation of Nepalese Dhaka weaving.
During the Rana regime, muslin was imported into Nepal and used by the elite.
It was prized for its softness, elegance, and breathability, especially in warm seasons.
Phuti Karpas Cotton: Only grew in Bengal’s Meghna River plains. Nepal’s geography couldn’t support it.
Climate: Bengal’s stable humidity was ideal; Nepal’s cooler, drier hills weren’t.
Weaving Skills: Bengal had centuries-old generational skills. Nepal had different, though rich, textile traditions.
Focus: Nepalese weavers made durable, colorful fabrics like Dhaka cloth, woolens, and silks for local use.
Trade Routes: Muslin came via trade routes connecting Bengal and Nepal through Bihar.
Royal Demand: Nepali royalty valued and wore muslin for luxury and comfort.
Gifts & Diplomacy: Muslin was exchanged in diplomatic gifts from Mughal Bengal to Nepal’s Malla and Shah rulers.
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